Installation
New Construction
Installing Your New Construction Window
Please use our new instructions for installing the following new construction windows:
The following must be done to insure warranty coverage. All vinyl new construction windows are designed to be installed plumb, square and level. If the installer does not meet these simple requirements, the appearance, operation and weatherability of the unit will be affected.
Lay window on flat work surface (exterior side down). Window should be closed and locked. Carefully slit the plastic stretch wrap while using it to protect the window from scratches. Caulk around perimeter of unit on back of fin or caulk around perimeter of opening on exterior sheathing. Set window into rough opening from outside with integral nailing fin (flashing) overlapping exterior sheathing, seating in into caulk (on fin or sheathing). Center window in the opening (there should be approximately 1/4" - 3/8" space on sides between stud and side jambs). Partially secure one top corner with 1 3/4" galvanized roofing nail driven through predrilled integral nailing fin (do not set nail at this time).
Note: When installing on foam board sheathing, you must use special anchor/collar nails or nailing fin must be installed under the foam board.
Note: Nails should penetrate wood stud behind exterior sheathing by 1/2". Use appropriate nail length and/or adjust nail gun for depth to set nail.
Level window (check at sill and head). Shim under all windows. Place "wedge" shim under each side jamb (also under each mull section of multiple units and one under the sill of units 3-0 and wider… do not over shim sill applications). Check level again at sill and then nail opposite top corner through hole in nailing fin.
Plumb vertically two ways: side-to-side and front-to-back. Shim windows on sides at ends of meeting rails (center point). Use "wedge" shim and check that sides are straight and plumb…do not over shim.
Check sash for easy operation; close window and lock…check rails will align if unit has been installed plumb and square. Completed installation on the outside by driving 1 3/4" galvanized roofing nails all around perimeter. Top piece of asphalted building paper may now be applied over top nailing fin, when unit is secured in place (shimmed and nailed).
Apply exterior siding, stucco, brick, etc. Allow sufficient clearance around perimeter of windows. Caulk around entire perimeter of window unit and under sill.
Note: When brick veneer is used as exterior finish, clearance must be left for proper caulking between brick and window sill. Failure to do this can result in damage and bowing of sill caused by shrinking and setting of wall's structural lumber underneath.
Check installation and sash operation before trimming exterior. Sash will not operate smoothly if unit is out-of-square or is over-shimmed.
Using Self-adhered Flashing
It is recommended that the builder use
Vycor Plus self-adhered flashing or equal to
help prevent water penetration from the
exterior. Cut the membrane to the desired
length. Peel back the release paper to
expose the adhesive. Align the membranes
and press into place with heavy hand
pressure. Laps must be a minimum of 3".
Install the membrane such that all laps
shed water.
How to Tilt in for Cleaning
Each window comes with two tilt latches on
each operating sash. Raise the bottom
sash about 3". Using both hands,
disengage the tilt latches on both sides
simultaneously. While holding the latches
with your thumbs, gently pull the top of
sash toward you until the latches are clear
of the frame. Holding the top of the sash,
continue to lower it until you pass 90
degrees. This will lock the balance shoes in
place. To tilt the top sash (on the double hung),
lower the sash about 3" inches and
follow the same procedures. To return
either sash to its operating position, swing
the sash back up and push the top of the
sash gently unit the tilt latches snap back in
the side jambs.