Installation

Replacement Windows

EcoShield Windows

PDF Version

Installing Your Replacement Window

Please use our new instructions for installing the following new replacement windows:

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The following instructions show the normal manner of installation of a double hung replacement window into a conventional wood casing opening. If these instructions do not include your style of window, ask your dealer for additional instructions or assistance. Please read the instruction carefully prior to installation.

Check the size of the replacement window prior to removing the existing window sash to make sure that you are installing the correct window into the particular opening or that there has not been a mistake in the measuring or ordering process. Score the paint of the interior window with a utility knife so that the paint does not chip when removing the interior trim. Be careful when removing the interior trim because the trim can be re-used with the new replacement window. See Figure 1.

After removing the interior trim, you can remove the bottom sash (bottom glass) of the existing window. If there are balance cords, you can cut the cords and let the weights settle to the bottom of the cavity. If you window opening has jamb liners (spring-loaded aluminum or vinyl sash lighteners), remove the jamb liners which are usually held in with screws. See Figure 2.

After removing the bottom sash, remove the parting stop which separates bottom sash from top sash. This stop will usually break while trying to remove it and that is okay. You will not re-use this parting stop. See Figure 3.

The top sash will be free to remove once the parting stop is gone. This process resembles the procedure for removing the bottom sash.

Once you have removed both existing sashes, simply scrape the casing free of old paint and caulk, especially along the exterior blind stop. Vacuum or sweep up all debris.

Be sure the existing pulleys have been removed and all holes have been filled with fiberglass insulation. Some installers prefer to use nonexpanding, low pressure foam insulation instead of fiberglass insulation. See Figure 4.

Apply a bead of caulk around the interior of the blind stop. Some people may choose to apply this bead after the installation is complete; either method is appropriate.

Remove the plastic wrap from the new window. Remove the sill angle from the window which is normally shipped between the head of the window and the head expander. Set the angle aside until later in the window installation procedure.

Cut a 3" wide strip of fiberglass insulation and lay it on your sill prior to setting the new window into the opening. This will help keep drafts from entering under the new window unit. Some installers prefer not to do this procedure for fear of collecting moisture due to condensation.

Remove the head expander from the new window and fill the head expander with fiberglass insulation. Set the head expander on the new window frame. You may have to depress the head expander on to the frame more, as you set the window into the opening.

You are now ready to set the window into the opening. Lift the unit by squeezing in on both sides, hold the window together while lifting. Set the bottom of the window over the stool onto the sill first. Be sure that the window is setting down onto the sill of the existing window. Also, be sure that the window sets up against the blind stop of the existing casing and hold it in place while installing the screws. Slide your head expander up if necessary.

On the inside track on the top jambs (sides), there are two slide plates covering the installation holes. Slide down or remove the covers and install two #8 x 2 screws (one on each side). On the bottom of the outside track, there is also a cover plate on each jamb (side). Slide the plate up to expose the screw holes. Screw in one #8 x 2 screw into each hole. Do Not over tighten because the vinyl may crack.

Return all four covers to the original position. Unlock the meeting rail locks, raise the bottom sash out of the sill and tilt in the sash by depressing the tilt latches on the top of the sash.

Locate the screw in the middle of the jamb that adjusts the alignment screws. By tightening that screw, the screw head will tighten against the existing jamb and cause the jamb of the vinyl master frame to tighten against the top and bottom sash. Then tilt in the top sash and repeat the procedure with the outside track of the jambs. Be careful not to tighten the screws too much as the sash will not operate properly.

Take fiberglass insulation (or non-expanding, low pressure foam insulation) and fill the cracks on the sides of the window between the new window and existing casing.

Apply a bead of caulk around the perimeter of the new window prior to reinstalling the interior trim. The trim should go back into the existing holes in most window openings. Be sure to put the interior trim tightly up against the new windows.

On the outside sill area, you may need to trim the sill angle piece prior to snapping it into the sill of the window to close up any gap between the bottom of the vinyl window and the existing window sill.

If you did not caulk the blind stop prior to setting the new window into the opening, you will want to put a bead of caulk around the exterior between the blind stop and the new window.

Operate the window for squareness and locking. The double hung sash can now be tilted in for cleaning. Any questions not explained in this piece can be answered by your Eco Shield Dealer.

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EcoShield Window Systems, a quality product of Kasson and Keller Inc.
Manufacturing replacement windows, new construction windows, and storm windows since 1947

Product information on this site is subject to change without notice.
Please contact your dealer or customer service representative for the most up to date information.